My Casting Process Up Close – No It Is Not Instant! Part 2

So last time we talked about casting pewter. Even though it is a fairly simple process it is definitely not instant. But what about casting bronze?

Casting pewter involves a simple mold, either soapstone or a modern material like silicone. But casting bronze is often done as a lost wax process. If you want to see more detail about the lost wax process itself I suggest that you read my six part blog series The Way That I Cast – Lost Wax.

But this blog is not about the casting process, it is about what happens when a cast piece comes out of the flask. This picture shows the beginning of the process.

Button Process

On the left we see a freshly cast set of buttons, still covered with investment (the white layer). The next piece has the investment cleaned off, by scrubbing it with a brush in water. And then a fan of individual buttons has been cut off of the sprue button with the hacksaw (shown at the bottom of the picture). Then the individual buttons are cut off of the fan with the sprue cutters (at the top of the picture). What is left is a pile of buttons and a pile of sprue pieces.

The buttons have been cut from the small branches of the fan, and now they need to have the spot where they were cut off rounded and smoothed out.

wet sander

And this is what I use to do that job, a wet sander. The sanding belts are made of wet-dry sandpaper. Water drips down onto the belts and cools the piece that is being sanded, while controlling the dust. Once the button sprue area has been shaped it is time to smooth it a bit more.

Cratex Wheel

This set of Cratex wheels does a more delicate job of smoothing the area and removing scratches. There is a small pile of bodkins, crosses, Thor’s hammers, and dress hooks in process on the bench.

And once the general smoothing has been accomplished, the pieces are put into the vibratory tumblers to remove the oxides and further smooth the surfaces.

wet vibratory tumblers

And this is what the vibratory tumbler bench looks like. There are two tumblers, each with their own source of circulating water. Each tumbler is filled with a different polishing material. The one on the right is the courser material and the one on the left is the finer material. The white bucket with the sieve on top shows the contents of the left tumbler being sorted to remove the pieces of cast metal. The cast pieces spend at least three hours in each of the tumblers, with a rinse in between to avoid transferring grit from one process to another.

And now what? Well, at this point I turn on a bright light, and check each piece to see how it is progressing. If it looks good I will set it aside for the next step in the process. If there are any issues, it will either be rejected if there are “fatal flaws” that can’t be cleaned up, or get a trip back to the Cratex wheels for some additional polishing.

Next Time: Are we done yet?

West Kingdom Golden Beltane Part 3

Noise and Quiet Moments

Isn’t that really the best part of an event, the contrasts? I tend to be a relatively early riser at events. It is a rare morning that I am not out of bed and dressed by 7:30 AM. Being up at a relatively decent hour (that is late for me at home) gives me plenty of time to take Jack for a nice long walk, and make and eat a leisurely breakfast, before it is time to sweep and dust the shop and open the doors. It also gives me time to take advantage of early morning light for photographs, but more about that later.

The first day that we were completely set up at Golden Beltane we all jumped…a lot. The folks next to us had a very special piece of equipment set up – a drop hammer. Our next door neighbor was Master Emmerich of Vakkerfjell, and if you haven’t seen his work yet, you have really missed out. He has a lovely website where he explains the process that he uses to create period reproductions of real coins, and well as household tokens and special event tokens. His work is really amazing, and I am now the proud owner of a limited edition silver Golden Beltane Commemorative Coin. Truly awesome.

I was fortunate enough to catch Master Emmerich while he was setting up his display case one morning, and he generously gave me a tour of his masterworks. The gallery  on his website contains a considerable percentage of the coins that I saw, plus a bunch of custom work by Master Emmerich and others, and some very nice “how too” pictures. In a time frame where a lot of SCA items are made using computer generated art work, printed resists, and etching, when the item would have been stamped, or engraved in period, I found it genuinely exciting to discover someone who was actually making things in a period fashion. I had the great fortune to take a basic class on striking coins taught by another member of the West Kingdom Moneyers’ Guild many years ago (Master Emmerrich is currently the head of the guild), but I had really forgotten how much fun the entire process could be. Seeing the glory of handcrafted struck coins was a breath of fresh air, and I have a feeling that I will be working on some struck coins in the future.

Unfortunately I did not take a picture of Master Emmerich’s  drop hammer in use, but it really was very cool. The basic principal is that a weight is raised up about ten feet, and then released to smash down on the die set, which has a blank in between the two halves, to create a coin or medallion. A very cool period process.

There were literally a zillion other artisans working in various nooks and crannies around Golden Beltane. Just about every one of the West Kingdom Guilds taught classes, and one enthusiastic group of folks even recreated an Antwerpen Market, complete with period clothing, vegetables and goats!

Our last day at West Kingdom Golden Beltane we had fog in the morning.

WK pavilion in fogThere were whispers of Avalon and Brigadoon.

fog at beltane

 

 

 

 

The Way That I Cast: Lost Wax Process Part 4

Last time we created the actual molds that are used for casting, and we poured the molten metal into them. But what happens now? Well, they need to be quenched.

Quenched? Yes. The metal needs to be cooled down the rest of the way so that it can be handled, and it needs to be removed from the plaster in the flask. Quenching accomplishes both of these things at the same time. Here is a picture of my high tech quenching arrangement. I have a bucket of water sitting up on a metal stool. The still hot flask (in the tongs) is lowered into the bucket of water. Sizzle, spit, steam and it all happens. The forceps in my other hand are used to remove the still warm metal from the flask. I set it aside into another smaller container of water while I clean the flask.

quench and reveal

There is always some plaster left in the flask, so I scrape it out with a putty knife and throw it into the other bucket that you can see next to me on the floor. The flask is then scrubbed with a wire brush, rinsed and put on the floor to dry.

flasks drying

And here they are drying! Meanwhile the newly cast piece is sitting in a small container (an old cooking pot) full of water. It is now cool to the touch, and this is what a typical one looks like.

newly cast buttons

Once I am done casting it is time to begin making these messy looking blobs into something worthy of being put in my shop. This picture shows the basic process. First the pieces, in this case buttons, are cut off of their sprues. This process often requires that the metal has to be cut apart in stages so that none of the buttons are damaged. Then the sprues are set aside to be cleaned and the buttons are given an initial tumble to remove any remaining investment and reveal any surface imperfections. Any flawed buttons go into the sprue pile to be recycled later. The remaining buttons are sanded, polished, inspected, and touched up until they look like this.

smaller button picture

The sprues are then cleaned and polished to remove all traces of investment and metal oxides. They are then dried and put away for later use.

I thought it was important to include a lovely picture of me in all of my pouring safety gear. Quite the fashion statement!

full kit

So for those wishing to replicate this major fashion statement…Starting at the top we have a full face shield to prevent burns from splashing molten metal and boiling water. Under that shield we have a high quality particle dust mask. The process of quenching the flasks can put quite a bit of fine particulate silicon into the air, which is very bad for your lungs. The blue jacket with leather sleeves is a welding jacket – doesn’t catch on fire easily and protects from an assortment of hot things. Leather welding apron and gloves complete the ensemble. What you can’t see is loose fit cotton jeans and high top leather boots.

Next time: How I Got Started Casting